burgundy
2004
For the second time this
year Nic and I returned to France. This time we travelled on fairly
short notice of about three weeks, one of which we were in Norway
and gave us a 4 day turnaround before flying from Manchester to
Paris Charles-de-Gaulle airport.
There were only very occasional
clouds encountered on our flight enabling us to see amazing panoramas.
Here our view of the river mist on the lower Seine valley with
Rouen on the LH side. Penny Liley, a friend of a friend of Nic's,
who together with her husband John runs a hotel barge holiday
business, had cancellations with the unexpected vacancies threatening
the viability of this week for the other guests.
A gilded statue of Jeanne
d'Arc (Joan of Arc) stands defiantly in the Place des Pyramides
outside the Regina Hotel where we were to forgather with the other
guests before being taken by minibus to join our cruise.
As we wove through the Paris
traffic towards the Peripherique we caught glimpses of landmarks
and sights but only as we sped along the Autoroute were we treated
to very explicit notices of the delights we were approaching.
Then, in the afternoon sunshine
we were ushered up the gangplank on to the terrace deck of the
'Luciole', our home for the next 6 days. Sipping a welcome Kir
Royale and nibbling on the thoughtfully provided and delicious
savoury nibbles we could look across the calm waters of the Yonne
( the major tributary of the Seine ) to the cathedral at Auxerre.
Another bright promising
morning welcomed us after a comfortable night in our cabin where
we had retired after the first in an unending run of gourmet set
meals with selected local wines for each course. On a pre-breakfast
stroll, Auxerre's Port de Plaisance viewed from across the river
with Luciole the large barge on the RH.
A simple and delicious breakfast
in the French manner safely tucked away we took our places on
the terrace deck as the Luciole slipped her mooring and swung
gracefully and majestically across the river to the first of many
bridges (and locks) through which we would pass on our 'Voyage
into France'.
Not very far beyond the
bridge we encountered our first lock as we entered the Nivernais
Canal that weaves in and out of the Yonne as it climbs 165 metres
to its summit and 75 metres down to the upper Loire, in a total
journey of 175 bucolic kilometres. We were not going all that
distance but as the Burgundian flag in our bows swung slowly closer
to the lock entrance it didn't seem possible that the bulk of
the Luciole could slide into that slim entry. We did though with
only a few inches to spare at each side and only a foot or two
at the bows and stern. Phew!
And, if proof were needed,
here she is emerging at the higher level having disembarked a
few passengers to walk or cycle along the towpath.
We were all more than somewhat
in awe of the boathandling skills of our skipper, Nigel, at his
solitary post at the wheel.
Then, not quite 10 km from
Auxerre, we stop for lunch alongside the dividing wall of the
canal separating us from the rapids of the river around which
the canal diverts the boats and barges.
We are just short of the
next lock, which like all the locks will remain closed from 12
to 1 at least, while the lock-keepers partake of luncheon. And
while final preparation of our lunch is afoot I prowl around the
environs, and spotting the concerted rising of my fellow guests
discern that 'Lunch is served'.
By the time I regained the
saloon I had missed the introductory description of the dishes
and the wine chosen to accompany them ...
... but not so late that
I missed my portion!
After lunch we went through
the lock, regained the river and motored over the smooth waters
to our mooring for the night, just out of frame.
Then into the minibus and
back to Auxerre! This time we were to have a guided tour, led
by Michael, around some of the highlights of the old town. Here
we are gathered under a statue of St Nicolas the patron saint
of the watermen.
Back at Luciole, another
wonderful dinner and a comfortable slumber saw us awakening to
a misty morning. A pre-breakfast stroll into the village of Bailly;
another early riser at the weirs.
Continued
in Part II
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