Monsal Head Revisited


As an antidote to the Xmas bustle Nic suggested we go for a walk on the Friday before Christmas. I chose the venue/route but neither of us could sway the weather gods. We woke to low cloud and mist only a degree or two warmer than freezing fog but pressed on with our intention of a morning walk, a good lunch and a browse in the Bookstore at Brierlow Bar on the way home.

Outside the Stable Bar at the Monsal Head Hotel there was a forlorn air partly due to the mist and partly to the building having temporarily lost electrical supply.

Across the road only the immediate environs were visible - the almost hairpin bend of the dale and surrounding hillsides were matters of belief and trust, no evidence existed of their presence until closer approached.

There were some signs now, however, that the mist was thinning in places. Slipping away down the path we headed for the Monsal Trail up the valley and avoiding the viaduct as there were no views yet from there to show Nic, but there may be on our return. The cheery red of the rose hips gave a seasonal cast to this part of the path and their damp surfaces reflected what light there was.

By the time we reached the valley floor the mist was starting to lift and we could admire this solid stone built farmhouse ...

... and beyond to the footbridge over the River Wye, complete with Magician's Assistant suitably shrouded against the cold and damp.

Looking upstream: a moody view from the bridge.

At the start of the floodplain of Monsal Upperdale, where Cressbrookdale waters join with the Wye, Sir Richard Arkwright's Georgian facaded Cressbrook Mill was built in stages from 1785 and only ceased cotton textile production in the 1960's.

These Grade II listed buildings have been saved from total decay and eventual ruin by being converted into apartments and from what we can see from here it looks like they are going to be self-generating electricity if I interpret the grey pipework in the centre of the picture correctly.

Immediately above the mill complex the River Wye was dammed to provide a controllable head of water for the water wheel which provided motive power prior to the adoption of steam. A new/reconstructed leat confirms my observations about a new harnessing of water power.

From here the dale becomes known as Water-cum-Jolly Dale and to continue upstream our path runs along the base of the limestone cliff, which is a natural not man-made feature. You may just about be able to discern dimly, on the still misty skyline left of centre, the outline of the mill-owner's residence perched above the dale.

The path alongside the still waters can be flooded after heavy rain but never too deeply as the weir regulates the water level. Teal, Mallard, Heron, Coot, Moorhen and Dabchick were all present in and on the waters as we passed. The sides of the valley, wooded on our northern side with open fields above more limestone bluffs on the other side, almost imperceptibly grew closer as we progressed.

In the distance another weir which had an old leat and the remains of a cast iron water wheel.

Beside the stream, my ever observant Magician's Assistant spotted this colourful collection of fungus, moss and rotting stump.

 

Continued in Part II

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